I recently had a lovely request from Jackie for some help with designing/furnishing her entry hall. Actually, she really asked me if she should hang a mirror on the wall opposite the stairs but if you know me, you know I just can’t help myself on these design Q’s ! As you can see, it is a long narrow hall at her front door with stairs leading up to the main floor and another doorway at the end leading to her studio.
Step 1 – Paint some woodwork!
Well, the first thing I’m going to suggest Jackie is that you paint the bannister cap and the woodwork that surround it on the stairs the same color white as your other trim work. I know, I can hear your Mister screaming “paint the wood??!!!” but don’t worry, they all do that! While the bannister woodwork matches your stair treads perfectly, in this instance it is dividing the whole space (which DOES include the stairwell to the opposite wall) in half instead of blending it all in and effectively doubling the entry area by erasing that line. In a larger entryway, this woodwork would work [whew, say that a few times..."the wood work would work if the wood work worked"...you get the idea!], but in this case you need to use a few visual tricks to widen the area. And you can console the Mister by pointing out how much more your stairs themselves will be enhanced by being the star woodwork in the room. He can also take comfort that I did not suggest you paint or wallpaper the whole space
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Take a look at this picture and how the dimensions of this entryway are about the same as yours, but with the white woodwork on the bannister and trim it appears wider and more open.
[Note, however, that I would not use this type of setup (picture rail and hooks) for you as I believe you need more light and effective storage in your hallway and those coat hooks NEVER look that neat in person...trust me, I had hooks and they are always a dumping ground for people who do not want to hang their things in closets...ahem, male people mostly!]
Step 2 – Create Storage and Visually Break Up the Space
Next, you mentioned that you used to have a table at the end of the hallway. Some people like to do this, or even place a large ceiling to floor mirror on that end wall, but in this instance I would try to de-emphasize the length of the hall by placing something midway along the wall running opposite and parallel to the stairs to effectively break up the long visual line that exists now. I love console tables to create this effect! They are stylish; yet, they remain practical by allowing you somewhere to store keys, a purse, other things in baskets beneath it, etc. And rather than one large mirror above the table, I love what Anthropologie has done with this Collected Memories mirror…a look easily copied by visiting the thrift stores and garage sales and creating your own arrangement instead of paying them $695 US! I love that you will get more light reflected into the space without having the effect of looking like you have two sets of stairs, something I fear one large mirror would do. Plus, this arrangement still allows you somewhere to do a last check on your hair and makeup before you head out the door!
That particular console table is just about the perfect size for your situation as well (15 3/4″ deep and nearly 4 feet long). From what I can tell by your picture (guessing that your tiles are 12″ X 12″), your hall looks to be about 39″ wide from baseboard to baseboard. With those dimensions, you would still have enough room to get by a narrow table as you go down the hall (note that your cute little puppy’s bed is taking up nearly 2 feet and you still manage to get by that). If you keep the size/depth in mind (aim for between 12-16″ max depth-preferrably staying closer to the 12″ and a length of up to 4′) I’m sure you could do a little creative shopping and find something similar in those same great thrift stores or garage sales I mentioned earlier. You could even find a piece and paint it out in the trim color or a shade creamier (I like the shade creamier for an ever so slight contrast). Here’s a variation on that theme:
I’d place the table mid way along that wall opposite the stairs, perhaps nudging it closer to the end near the bottom of the stairwell and on top of the table I’d add two tall skinny table lamps with tiny shades. [I see you have an outlet along that wall you can run an extension cord to.] The above photo shows a good scale you could use as a guide for the lamps as well.
Step 3 – Create seating and shine
On either side of the console table, I’d position little bungalow-drum type stools so that you have somewhere to sit down and pull your boots on. I love the idea of these being shiny to juxtapose a painted wood table and a natural flooring material that I’m going to suggest in a minute. It’s the Urban side of my UCS style…
I LOVE the one lying on its side or it’s deeper amber version in the middle standing up! These stools are from Orange Skin but I’m sure if you keep your eyes peeled at Home Sense or other home discount stores you will find something similar!
Step 4 – Add some warmth on the floor
For your flooring, I know from experience that those tiles are slippery when wet (and cold in bare feet) so I would add a runner, but nothing with pattern to draw your eye down the hall. I love plain old sisal’s for this purpose, and not many people know this, but Pottery Barn will custom make one for your hall. I’d use about 2/3 of the dimension of the length of the hall and go with 2-3 feet wide, binding it in a neutral tape that blends with the sisal. This link shows you the options from Pottery Barn, but for you I would choose Pyrite with a Bark Brown border. Also note, this is one area that I would NOT try to save on…their custom option should run you about $300 (I’m guessing 3′ X 9′ would work for you) and you will get the exact fit and quality that’s required, something that searching for a deal might take years and/or never happen. Spring for this and save on the other areas, I say.
Step 5 – Change the light and you’ll change the mood
Last, I’d change that light fixture and add something with a little more pizzaz. I like this open bird-cage design available through HomeDepot . In addition, I’d buy and install a dimmer switch on that light’s control so that in the evening you could have it on lower setting, with the two table lamps also on (note: you can also buy dimmer extension cords to do dim the lamps too) and it will create a beautiful warm glow in this lower hall when guests arrive during evenings you entertain.
If this doesn’t suit your fancy, I’d opt to try and find something in a dark metal finish that does not have shades (remember you will have shades on the table lamps) and is no longer than about 22″ so that it doesn’t encroach too far down from the ceiling. What is nice about a piece hanging into the space a little deeper than your current fixture is that you will see more of it as you descend the stairs. [I changed all the lights in my house that looked like yours to a more vibrant hanging fixture.]
Step 6 – Wrap it up Suzie!
OK, that’s about all I have for now Jackie. I’d love to know if you decide to follow this direction, and if so would you please send me pictures so I can post a follow-up for the readers? Also, if any of you UCSers have other ideas for Jackie we’d love you to leave your suggestions too! After all, two heads (or more) are better than one Suzie!
Happy Hall Days Jackie
Love,
Suzie





















